TWENTY-NINE
KOA | OAHU, HAWAII
I wake up early, the soft glow of the Hawaiian sun filtering through the curtains, breathing life back into my soul. I’ve missed it here. Maliah is still asleep beside me, curled up under the blankets, her face peaceful despite the storm I know is raging inside her. I kiss her shoulder softly before slipping out of bed and pulling on my board shorts and a T-shirt. Today’s a big day—it’s time to take her out to Pipeline.
I know she’s scared. Hell, I’d be worried if she wasn’t. Pipeline is no joke, and the closer we get to the competition, the more that fear has been eating at her. But I also know that Maliah’s stronger than she gives herself credit for. She’s faced down some of the toughest waves in the world, but this one—it’s different.
I grab a couple of boards and throw them in the back of the Jeep, making sure to pack some water and snacks for later. When I head back inside, Maliah is stirring, her eyes blinking open as she stretches. I lean down to kiss her forehead, and she smiles sleepily at me.
“Morning, princess. Are you ready to face the beast?” I ask, trying to keep my tone light.
She offers me a half-hearted smile, but I can see the worry flickering in her eyes. “I don’t know if I’ll ever be ready,” she admits quietly, sitting up and hugging her knees.
I sit down on the edge of the bed, reaching out to tuck a strand of hair behind her ear. “That’s okay. We’ll take it one step at a time. First, we’re just going to watch, study the waves, and talk to some locals. No pressure to do anything yet.”
She nods but I can tell the idea of even going to Pipeline is weighing on her. I don’t push her any further, knowing she needs time to warm up to the wave on her own. “Come on,” I say gently. “Let's get some breakfast, and then we’ll head out.”
After breakfast, we drive out to Pipeline. It’s still early, but the surf is already picking up, and a few locals are out there carving through the waves like it’s just another day. I park the Jeep and walk down to the beach with Maliah beside me. The sight of Pipeline, even from here, sends a shiver down my spine. The waves are massive, hollow tubes crashing with a demanding force. It’s beautiful, but it’s brutal.
Maliah’s quiet as we sit on the sand, her eyes fixed on the water. I know what’s going through her head because it’s the same thing I went through the first time I faced Pipeline. You look at those waves, and all you can think about is how easily they can take you from this world.
We sit in silence for a while, just watching, studying. The locals out there make it look effortless, but I know better. They’ve spent years mastering this wave, learning every nuance, every ripple in the water. It’s not just about skill—it’s about understanding Pipeline.
After a while, a couple of local surfers come up the beach, one of them I recognize—Kelani, a guy I grew up with, who’s been surfing this break since we were kids.
“Koa Foster,” he says with a chuckle and big grin.
I stand up and we clap hands, pulling each other in for a hug. “Kelani Makana, it’s been a while,” I say, pulling back to smile at him.
“Too long, my friend,” he replies before glancing down at Maliah. “You brought her to the lion’s den, huh?” Kelani says with a grin, his voice thick with the local Pidgin accent.
Maliah tenses beside me, and I can tell his words are hitting her harder than they should. I shoot him a look. “We’re just here to study the waves,” I say firmly. “No need to scare her off before she even gets in the water.”
Kelani chuckles, but his face turns serious as he looks back at Pipeline. “Nah, I’m not trying to scare her. But she needs to know. Pipeline ain’t like the others, braddah. She’ll take you out if you don’t give her respect. We’ve seen it too many times—guys think they’ve got it, and then boom, one bad wipeout and it’s over.”
Maliah’s eyes widen, and I can see the fear creeping back in. I squeeze her hand, trying to ground her. “Kelani, maybe ease up a little,” I say, my tone tight.
He shrugs. “I’m just saying what everyone knows. Pipeline’s killed more surfers than any other wave out here. The reef is sharp, and if you fall wrong, it’s not just a wipeout. It’s your life.”
Maliah’s hand goes cold in mine, and I can feel the tension radiating from her. This is exactly what I didn’t want to happen. Her hearing all the horror stories before she’s even had a chance to get her head straight.
I turn to her, placing a hand on her cheek. “Hey, you don’t have to listen to that, okay? I know it’s scary, but you’ve got this. We’ll take it slow. No one’s rushing you.”
She nods, but I can tell she’s rattled. I shoot Kelani another look, and he raises his hands in mock surrender. “Alright, alright. I’ll shut up. But if she wants some tips, we can help. You’ve been here before, Koa, you know what it takes.”
I nod, grateful that he’s willing to share his experience, but annoyed that he’s made it worse for Maliah. “Thanks, man. We’ll catch up later.”
“Are you visiting your mom soon? You’re all she’s been talking about since she found out you made it on the tour.”
I nod. “Yeah, we’re heading over to hers in a couple days for Christmas. See you there?”
Kelani nods before him and his friend head off down the beach, leaving us alone again. Maliah’s still staring at the water, her face pale. I pull her into my arms, holding her close. “I know that was a lot to hear, but you’re not alone in this, okay? I’m right here with you.”
She closes her eyes and nods, her breathing shallow. We sit like that for a while, her body pressed against mine, the sound of the crashing waves filling the silence between us. I can tell she’s still scared, and I hate seeing her like this, so unsure of herself, so unlike the fierce woman I know she is. She’s quiet, lost in thought, and I know I need to do something to ease her mind before it eats her alive.
I pull out my phone and scroll through my contacts until I land on Gabriel’s name. If there’s anyone who can help snap her out of this, it’s him. He’s tough, but he’s always known how to push us in the right ways.
I click video call and watch as Maliah and I pop up on the screen, waiting for him to answer.
“Yea, what’s up, Koa?”
He looks exhausted, as if he hasn’t slept all night. I can see Zalea asleep on the couch behind him.
“Hey, Coach. I’m out at Pipeline with Maliah, trying to get a feel for the wave before next week's competition. Any pointers?”
Gabriel pauses, his eyes narrowing as he studies the two of us through the screen. I can see the wheels turning in his head, like he’s reading more than just the situation at Pipeline.
“You’re asking for tips?” he finally says, raising an eyebrow. “Koa, you’ve surfed Pipeline before. So, what’s really going on?”
I glance at Maliah, her arms wrapped around her knees as she stares out at the ocean. I hesitate for a moment before answering, “She’s spooked, Gabriel. The wave…it’s in her head.”
Gabriel doesn’t react right away, but I can tell he’s thinking, his expression softening as he leans closer to the camera. “Put her on.”
I nudge Maliah gently, holding the phone out toward her. “Gabriel wants to talk to you.”
She hesitates, like she doesn’t want to face him, but eventually she takes the phone from me, holding it up in front of her. “Hey, Coach,” she says, her voice barely above a whisper.
“Maliah.” His tone is firm but not unkind. “What’s going on? You’ve surfed bigger waves than Pipeline. Why is this one getting to you?”
She swallows hard, looking down for a second before meeting his gaze on the screen. “I don’t know,” she admits. “It’s just…everything I’ve heard about it, the wipeouts, the reef, the injuries. I can’t stop thinking about all the ways it could go wrong.”
Gabriel nods slowly, his eyes never leaving hers. “That fear you’re feeling? It’s natural. Hell, every surfer has felt it at some point. But you can’t let it control you. Fear’s only useful if you know how to channel it.”
Maliah’s eyes are locked on the screen, hanging on his every word.
“Listen,” Gabriel continues, “you’ve been training for this your whole life. You’ve faced insane conditions, more than most people could handle. This isn’t about being fearless, it’s about being smart. Learn the waves patterns, and you surf it like you know how. You’ve got everything you need right here,” he says, tapping his temple. “Trust yourself.”
Maliah nods slowly, and I can see the tension in her shoulders easing just a bit.
“Thanks, Coach,” she whispers.
She hands the phone back to me, looking a little more grounded now. I end the call and look back at her, still sitting quietly beside me. I wrap an arm around her and pull her close, pressing a kiss to the top of her head, and she leans into me, her body relaxing a little more.
“What is scaring you the most about the wave?” I ask softly. “The real reason.”
She takes a deep breath. “Getting sucked below the barrel.”
“What about it, the risk of hitting the reef?”
She shakes her head. “Just being below it, watching the world fade away above me.”
I frown as I look at her. “If you were sucked below the water’s surface, watching the barrel crashing above you, I’d be by your side in seconds, bringing you back to the top. You wouldn’t just fade away under there. I promise.”
Her eyes search mine and she swallows hard, brows furrowing. “It’s just…it’s so unpredictable.”
“Life is unpredictable. This is just another challenge. We can learn the rhythm of Pipeline together.”
She bites her lip, contemplating my words. “What if I freeze up? The way I did in Teahupo’o?”
“Then you remind yourself of who you are. You’re a fighter, Mal. You don’t back down from challenges. Remember when you caught a wave at Saquarema? How alive you felt?”
She nods slowly, her breath hitching. “That was different. I was just?—”
“No,” I interrupt, holding her gaze. “You were brave. And you are brave. This is just another opportunity to show the world what I already know.”
Her shoulders drop slightly, the tension easing, and I can see her considering my words. “Okay,” she finally says, a glimmer of determination sparking in her eyes. “Let’s go check it out.”
“That’s my girl,” I reply, feeling a surge of pride. I stand up and extend my hand to her, but she just stares at me, face completely flushed.
“Don’t say that again, not right before we go surfing,” she says, her voice breathy.
I blink before I give her a half smirk. “Why?” I ask in a low voice. “Did me calling you my girl turn you on?”
She grabs a fistful of sand and throws it at me. I burst out into laughter as I watch her face turn crimson. “Shut up,” she hisses before rising to her feet.
I grin at her before my eyes travel to Kelani in the background, further down the beach with his friend. “Let’s go talk to Kelani and see if he has any experience with being swallowed up by barrels out here.”
She nods, her determination solidifying. “Yeah, that sounds good.”
We move along the beach until we’re closer to him. “Hey!” I call out. “Has a barrel ever pulled you under out here?”
They exchange glances, then his friend, a tall guy with sun-kissed skin and a wide grin, steps forward. “Yeah, just yesterday.”
Maliah’s eyes go wide as she stares at him, living proof that she won’t just fade away. “What’s it like?” she asks him.
His expression turns serious. “It’s intense. You have to stay calm and remember to look for the surface. If you panic, that’s when things could get messy,” he says, eyeing her. “But it’s not all bad. Once you’re back up, you realize how beautiful it is. The thrill is worth the fear.”
She glances at me, and I can see the mix of fear and excitement swirling in her eyes. I lean in closer, whispering, “See? You’ve got this.”
We stand and talk with Kelani and his friend, Makoa, for a while, listening as they offer more tips and sharing their experiences. I watch as Maliah’s expression shifts, the fear beginning to fade.
“You ready to tackle this?” I ask, looking down at her.
She meets my gaze, her eyes shining with confidence. “Yeah, let's do it.”
We paddle in from the ocean and as I glance at Maliah, there’s a glow about her—something radiant and alive that wasn’t there before. The way her smile lights up her face as she glides over the warm ocean water is infectious. She almost looks like she could stay out here forever, and I can’t blame her.
As we reach the shore, I see her hesitate, glancing back at the waves as if they’re calling to her. “Princess,” I say, giving her a playful nudge with my elbow. “You’ve got to save some energy for the competition.”
She bites her lip, a mix of reluctance and excitement in her gaze. “I just feel so alive out there.”
“I get it, believe me,” I reply, brushing a hand through my hair as I scan the waves behind us. “But the ocean isn’t going anywhere, we’ll be back soon.”
She takes a deep breath, looking back one last time at the surf before turning toward me. “Okay, you’re right.”
We walk up the beach, and once we reach the car, I load our boards in and slide into the driver’s seat while she hops in next to me. She turns on the music as we start driving off and immediately begins to hum along, her voice light and carefree.
This is the Maliah I’ve missed.
The one that can just be herself around me.
The one I can’t ever let slip through my fingers again.